Monday, March 26, 2012

Here It Comes...

...after five months of frozen water and frozen toes, we're finally starting to thaw. This past week Azerbaijan celebrated the Novruz holiday - a Zoroastrian tradition celebrating the spring and the new year - which means we got a nice week off. In the last few months we've hit several major milestones - 7 years of marriage and a 30th birthday. Also, we're now well past our halfway point and have gotten our official "close of service" date - November 9th -- see y'all around Thanksgiving!  Here are a few shots from the last few weeks...

The first sign of spring in our backyard - a little color in a world full of gray does good things for the soul, my friends...
 
My AzETA Counterparts - Humay and Shahla. Shahla is pulling out one of Humay's hairs to do a little fortune telling - a Novruz tradition for most women in Azerbaijan.

Most of the "fortune telling" has to do with marriage and babies. Shahla's taken Humay's hair and wrapped it around my wedding ring - they dip it in the water three times, then count how many times the ring hits the side of the glass - that's the age they'll be when they get married...

In an Azeri classroom - "Dream Babys"...love it...

A statue in one of our favorite parks - she seems a little weepy - I think i would be too if I was sitting in the snow all day.

...Soviet Swan...

Sunset in Ganja
Ganja's Russian Orthodox Church

The "Bottle House" -- a Ganja attraction - a house...covered in bottles...and other stuff

The Birds
In Ivanovka - a little Russian village in AZ


Friday, March 23, 2012

My Micophone Event

Following is a link to a video about the open microphone event we started in our city....

My Microphone Azerbaijan

Friday, March 2, 2012

Youth Environment Club

We helped start the city's first student run environment club. Here are a few pictures they took around the city to raise awareness...







Saturday, February 18, 2012

Hand me a microphone, man…I’ll change the world

“Hand me a microphone, man…I’ll change the world.” We’d been sitting at a street side cafĂ© under the canopy of a huge umbrella on one of the multitudes of public squares in Wroclaw, Poland drinking beer and indulging in a bit of sidewalk philosophy – everything from parenting to politics. We’d met our friends, Nat and his wife Haley, in Germany where he was stationed with the U.S. Army, then travelled to Poland to see the sights. Our conversation that day had been quite the marathon – the kind of conversation that lasts for hours and when you’ve finished, you’ve solved all the problems of the world. Nat’s line has become famous in our household…first as an endearing tribute to Nat the character, now as a mantra of truth and possibility. Why the change? Very simply, we joined the Peace Corps, and moved away from a world of luxury – luxury not measured in material goods, but in the freedom to express ourselves with variety and volume.
We serve in the city of Ganja, Azerbaijan; an ancient city of over 300,000 which houses five Universities and a host of international NGOs. You’d think, that in a city whose heart beats with youth and education, the town would be a hot bed of thought and activity. However, with a tradition of Soviet stoicism and a current economic climate inhospitable toward creative pastimes, the city’s youth have struggled to find positive outlets.
After a few months at site, I realized that the city’s youth aren’t without thought…aren’t without passion…aren’t without identify. They are simply without an outlet by which to convey them - and in the Spring of 2011, Ganja, My Microphone was born. It all began with a group of volunteers teaming up with the local NGOs and youth centers to mix interest with action and create a safe place for artistic self-expression. The event draws on the country’s rich history of poetry, music, and dance. Participants, most of them high school or University students, are given 5 minutes at the mic. Soon, an organic growth of both eastern and western artistry began to emerge – traditional dance, choreographed hip-hop, mugham, the poetry of Nizami Gencevi, the poetry of e.e. cummings, rap, beat box, traditional Azeri music, saz, tar, violin, piano…all merging and melding  to create the new voice of the youth of Ganja.
The event is held monthly in an old Russian Orthodox church, now a state puppet theater, on the banks of the Ganja River. I can’t help but enter the building with a sense of reverence, not only for the building itself – the intricate inlaid wood floors and the solemn slope of the rafters - but for the history and the future of the building itself – for what it has witnessed. A house of worship that once swelled with the sounds of praise to an all-powerful creator now fills with the sounds of a generation of hope. This building breathes life itself.
I think of the voices that have changed the world – the words of humble men and women who had a chance to speak and an outlet with which to convey their voice to the masses, and I can’t help but scan the faces in the room searching for that voice. There’s no way to adequately express the sensation of watching a young man or a young woman walk slowly to the mic, head down, voice quavering…and to see that same person walk away changed – new and energized and full of both the realization of self and of community. As the one year anniversary of the event nears, with an average of 120 students in attendance each month, with 25-30 performers at each event, and with My Mic now spreading into neighboring regions, it is evident that as voices emerge and praise for expression abounds, hope itself grows.
“Hand me a microphone, man…I'll change the world.”
Kelly Windham






Saturday, January 7, 2012

It's a Long Way Home...

After almost three wonderful weeks at home, and over 30 straight hours on almost every conceivable mode of transportation, we're back in Ganja - safe and sound...and cold.
We had such a great trip home - we (or maybe just me) shed a few tears over Target and lettuce and washing machines and central heating and actual lines at the grocery store. It was a great time to recharge and start thinking about what we want our lives to look like when we come home in 10.5 months. Thanks to those of you that took time out of your hectic holiday schedules to check in on us. We are so thankful for you all.
There's no better medicine than a little bit of home.
Here are a few pictures from our trip, enjoy.
Happy, Happy New Year!!

Happy Birthday, D! @ Chuy's
One of the best places on the planet Earth...

KJ, Landon, and Jared after a very intense POP-IT war on New Year's Eve...

Kelly, Darrell, Jerry, and Dustin - New Year's Eve Brews

@ Cis and Dave's

Dustin and Peggy

Peggy, Ron, and The Girls...

All But One Accounted For - Stephen's Asleep in Peggy's Room...

Lydia and Easter in their PJs...

Got to spend some time with my A&M buddy, Heather and Little Miss Tatum...

Dustin and Mike - @ Lustre Pearl...Foosball and Lone Star...

Miss Karen Getting Acquainted With The Neighbors in Beaukiss...

After a tough game of touch football...

Hello Happiness...and 10 Pounds...Well Worth It

Thursday, October 27, 2011

When Things Get Normal...

So I've been creeping on other PCV's blogs and realized that I've fallen down on my photag duties. I guess when you settle in and things become "normal" you forget that this normal is temporary...as is my memory. So, I'm going to work on keeping an eye out for things that won't be "normal" forever. Just to catch you up...things are good here. We're crazy busy - not always a problem, so I'm diggin' it while it lasts.Here are the bullet points:- We're both teaching at a local university. The Agriculture University is piloting a program with a small group of students in which all of the courses are taught in English. D's course is covering transnational corporations...or something like that...mine has a public speaking / technical writing focus. Yes - public speaking...no jokes, doubters - I did it every day for five years in a high school classroom - a relatively intimidating arena, so I think I can manage. It's a lot of fun, but we spend most of our free time getting our lessons ready since there's no set curriculum.
- D's "My Mic" event has become something truly incredible...something sustainable - a Peace Corps buzz word, and a pretty elusive goal for volunteers. Last month it had traditional Azeri music & dancing, break dancers, beat boxers, a guitar club, a rock band, and poetry reading. It's amazing to realize that you can actually see confidence grow in these young people...they step up to the mic one person and leave another. It sounds dramatic, but it's true. This event gives them a chance to shine, and that's exactly what they do.
- The Ganja AzETA (Azerbaijan English Teachers' Association) branch - my primary host organization - is showing great promise this year, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. We're starting an "AzETA Serves" chapter that is doing a clothing drive for a local orphanage this fall and will start another drive in the spring. We're also planning a literacy project with little ones that will focus on storytelling and creative writing.
- And all the hour here, hour there gaps in our days are filled with conversation clubs, essay revisions, and lesson planning.

We're getting so excited for our trip home in December. I cannot wait. Only seven weeks to go...Of course, I've been keeping a list of all the things I miss (which means food because I am an Atwood / Lanfear). Dustin thinks this is totally unproductive, but there are far worse things I could do, right?...So, here are the big ones...
- MEXICAN FOOD...all of it, including Taco Bell enchiritos (which some people don't consider Mexican food, but I say stop being so snotty and eat it already...) - BBQ - TEXAS BBQ...that means beef brisket, my friends - MARGARITAS...which some people would lump into the Mexican food category, but I think it deserves a category all its own - WAFFLE HOUSE...I know my Georgia crew is hearing this one...smothered, covered, and peppered, kids - AUNTIE ANNE'S PRETZEL DOGS & PEOPLE WATCHING...you know you do it - MELLOW MUSHROOM...bring it on...LUBY'S LUANNE WITH FRIED FISH...because there's nothing like eating moderately priced cafeteria food with elderly people. Oh yeah...
We love you guys. Thanks for keeping up with us. Hopefully we'll catch up with some of you in TX! Here are some pictures to show you what we've been up to lately...

AzETA teachers playing a game at "Start Strong" - a few weeks of workshops just before school started.

My AzETA Teachers at the End of Start Strong

Working on 4Mat Lesson Planning and SOAS - Select, Omit, Adapt, Supplement

A Few Weeks Ago We Decided It Was Time To Get Busy Cleaning Our Rugs / Sleeping Bags Since Winter Was Coming (It's Here Now, By The Way) So I Documented Our Fall Cleaning...I Got A Little Dramatic Near The End...And Apparently All My Hair Is Falling Out - Gross...

We got to go to the World Boxing Championship and Olympic Qualifying Rounds in Baku a Few Weeks Ago...This is American, Jesse Hart pounding someone from Qatar...


The Arena Was Pretty Empty - So All The Americans Waving Flags and Chanting "USA" Were A Little Obvious


We've Now Been To Two Azeri Weddings. This is Ilaha - She Was a Peace Corps Trainer and Works At Dustin's Office. This Day Also Happens To Be Our One Year Anniversary In Azerbaijan. Azeri Weddings Are Pretty Glamorous - Hence The Golden, Sparkle Walls...


Remember Kama, Our Host Sister in Sumgayit? We Went Back A Few Weeks Ago For Her Oldest Brother's Wedding. So Much Fun...I Think We've Got The Azeri Dancing Down To A Science...

Here are Vusal, his wife, Sadeat, and Baby Muslim At The Wedding...He Seems To Be Eyeing The Green Stuff...


Muslim Look A Little Irked, Maybe It's The Hat...Here He Is With Dustin and His Uncle (Sadeat's Brother). He's a Wonderful Man Whose Family Is Always So Kind and Welcoming...Do You Remember The Post Where The Kids Are Teaching Dustin Azeri? Those Are His Kiddos.

The Groom Getting Ready To Pick Up His Bride...What You Don't See Are All of His Relatives Dancing In the Parking Lot In Front of Him...

The Bride and Groom Make Their First Appearance Together. We Were All Just Upstairs Where There is More Dancing, The Red Ribbon Ritual - The Brother of of the Bride / Groom Ties a Red Ribbon Around The Bride's Waist to Symbolize Purity, An Exchange of Gifts Including a Mirror and a Lamp - More Symbolism But I'm Not Sure What Specifically...Here the Bride's Looking Up As Her Friends Throw Flower Petals From the Apartment Above.

My Buddy, Xayal - A Peace Corps Staffer...and the Coolest Tie Ever...


The New Peace Corps Trainees Are Now In Country and Went On The Site Visits Last Week. Ganja Got Quite a Few and the PCVs Got Together To Show Them A Good Time...This Is In Our Backyard...My Favorite Part of This Picture Is the Collection of Ziplocs Drying On The Line In the Background...Nice...